Day 62; Wed June 27 2007

(Dr Bug) Morning at Wilmer was quite cold - in the 40s. The mosquitos had vanished with the warmth. Later in the morning they returned with reinforcements. We walked for miles across lush wet meadows; for the first time I used my head net. It worked well. Most of the terrain today was flatter than normal. We walked through pine woods and bolder populated spruce forest. One pass, Dorothy Pass, was a blip compared to all others in th Sierras. STUD found a great lunch spot in the bolders, under some fur trees with enough wind to keep the mosquitos away and good shade from the sun.

The remainder of the afternoon was pleasant canyon walk. Stopped at the north fork of the Walker River to do laundry and relax. The mountains have changed character. They have become smoother, and warm green rather than the cold grey of lifeless rock. We slept on one of these mountainsides tonight over looking Kennedy Canyon.

We have not seen another human for 1 and a half days.

It is late June and spring has finally come to the Sierras. High in the mountains, for the past few days, the trail weaves between beds of small purple and blue flowers. The mountains have changed to volcanic. The rock is polverized, giving it smoother lines from a distance and allowing hardy plants to survive. We walked through a mountainside of 10 inch high plants with broad leaves and yellow flowers at days end.

We probably walked about 19 easy miles today. Tomorrow is 8 short miles to hwy 108 and a hitch to more food at Kennedy Meadows Resort.

(Stud) This is the first day we can recall that we have not encountered another person on the trail.

Day 61; Tues June 26 2007

(Stud) We left Smedberg Lake around 6:30 just after Achilles, Suess and Chickadee. Not far down the trail we ran into Yetti, said good morning--but he hurried on ahead and we didn't see him again until lunch.

Perhaps because we stayed up until 10:30 sharing a fire with Suess and Chickadee, Dwight and I were both total slugs today. It was like a plug had been pulled, and all the energy I had yesterday had drained out of me. I was particulary lagging behind Dwight on the downhills, where I kept sliding on the loose gravel--twice falling on my butt and both times using the same spot on my right had to catch my fall..ouch! A not so subtle reminder that granite is hard. (And, Yes, I'll take some cheese with that whine.)

Around 11 we were both out of water, but decided we could wait for a noon lunch break before making another stop. I lost sight of Dwight due to my slow pace and walked for what seemed like 2 hrs with no sign of him. I had decided I would stop at the next water crossing and eat lunch with or without him.

The next water was at a ford just past a trail crossing. Achilles, Yetti, Suess and Chickadee had all forded and were having lunch on the other side. I asked Achilles if they'd seen Dwight and he said they hadn't. He asked if I thought Dr
Bug had taken the wrong trail at the crossing. "Unlikely", I told him. For one thing, Dwight had the maps and also I didn't think he'd go past the crossing without waiting for me to catch up. Dwight and I always waited for each other at trail crossings just to make sure we headed down the same path.

I started across the river and lost my footing, and decided to just get water and return to the trail crossing. I made my lunch and waited. Dwight must have stopped somewhere along the trail and I must have passed hie without knowing it, I hoped.

Some time passed and here came Dwight. He'd stopped to get water at a creek. He said he thought he heard me pass but didn't yell out. He also broke our rule of leaving your pack at the side of the trail if you stop. I would have gotten into him over it, but he'd already gotten his due. Just after heading on the trail with his 3 liters of water, he yanked at his water tube thinking it had a kink in it, and he immediately felt water down his back. Before he could get his pack off, almost the entire 3 liters was emptied--with his sleeeping bag getting the worst of it. Needless to say, he wasn't in the greatest mood. He dumped out his pack at the trail crossing and we stayed there until his sleeping bag was nearly dry.

We shuffled on to Wilmer Lake battling it out with the mosquitos enroute. We stopped for dinner a hr or so before this and I nearly fell asleep sitting against a rock before Dwight finished up with the stove. He shared his dinner with me since I didn't have enough water to cook and was too tired anyway.

We slept cowboy with the netting having between trees. It still amazes how effective this is at keeping he mosquitos out--even though it is pretty disturbing to watch them all hovering aroung just inches away and buzzing up a storm.

Day 60; Mon June 25 2007

(Dr Bug) The day started with a killer breakfast at the Glen Alun mess hall. Literally, eggs, bacon, buttered pancakes - it was a heart attack waiting to happen. But there was also oatmeal and fresh fruit. I loved every all-you-can-eat mouth full. The other wonderful thing about this breakfast was that it was served at 7:30 am, we got to sleep in. We paid for a breakfast for Chickadee and enjoyed coversation with he and Suess and a couple of the paying guests.

The morning hike was relatively easy, a pass would come in the afternoon. Lunch was by a roaring river. We ate, washed our feet, and our sox, and relaxed. We had lunch with Achillies, Yettie and Ghost. I guess her name is Ghost because she covers every part of her body with white clothing an her skin is very pail white.

We made a steep mile drop down to Matterhorn Canyon. There by Wilson creek we found three hikers we had never met before. Billy Goat #2, Helen Wheels (pronounced hell on wheels) and Storm'in Norman. They were very happy-go-lucky folks in their mid to late 50's. Helen and Storm'in Norman are British and Helen was smoking a cigarette!

After walking though the yet another lush green meadow, the accent up Benson Pass was a long one. It was miles up hill with many false summits. Unlike passes before, this was wooded and green alost all the way to the top.

When we reached the barren summit the cool wind blew hard and we thought we could cook dinner mosquito free. But no, these guys were drafting and hiding behind any object to escape the wind and attack us. It is funny to watch them as they line up against the wind looking like a squadron of planes. Suess and Chickadee showed up and we swapped mosquito stories.

We hiked farther down the trail looking for a more hospitable place to eat. Found a open high area near a small creek, but the bugs were relentless. STUD built a small fire to try and smoke them away. Was not very effective. We ate and moved on. We finally reached our 20 mile objective, Semdburg Lake, about 8pm. Found a nice place to camp. The trout were literally jumping out ofthe water, trying to catch mosquitos. Suess came by and borrowed STUDs fishing gear. STUD and Chickadee started a camp fire. Nobody caught any fish but we had a great time telling stories by the camp fire. We got nto our sleeping bags at 10:30.

Day 59; Sun June 24 2007

(Stud) The first thing I heard this morning was: "The bag is gone". It was 5am. "What?", I asked. "The food bag is gone", Dwight said. I looked in the direction that he hung it and said, "Maybe we just can't see it from here, or maybe the wind got it". We had camped above 10,000 ft, where the where trees were sparse, and we were pummeled with wind all night. Dwight went to investigate and sure enough, he found the food bag--untouched--on the ground. The carbiner that attaches the bag to the rope had broken. Possibly an animal had come by and decided..not enough there to bother with!

From our campsite the trail dropped quickly down to the Llyle (sp?) river. There was a challenging rock hop across the river to the trail--and I went across in my normal slow mode--working myself up to jumping to the next rock. When I'd gotten nearly to the other side I looked up to see a man coming toward me. "I saw you from my campsite and it looked like you might need some help. My wife has trouble at river crossings so I thought I might lend a hand". By then I was past the difficult part so I thanked him. We chatted for a while--he was there with his grandkids--then headed down the trail.

It was a level hike along a meadow into Tuoleme Meadows, that generally followed the river. We went directly to the Tuolomme General Store and Grill and got a late, second breakfast. I had some delicious buckwheat pancakes with strawberries, which the cook/mamager gave us for free because we'd placed 2 orders for pancakes but they only had enough batter for one order. I'm not sure why this warrented a free order--so I guess we'll just chaulk it up to trail magic.

We hung around the picnic tables in front of the general store until late afternoon eating and chatting with other hikers gathered there. We met a few new folks: Mr Parkay-a guy around 30 and Yetti--a 69 year old who was averaging 25 miles/day. He is also a rock climber and gymnist. Both are very nice guys. My Parkay entertained us with Chuck Norris jokes. Eg: Normally the grass is greener on the other side...but on Chuck Norris' side it's just full of blood and tears. On second thought, this entertained some more than others.

Other hikers there there were Jeb, Speedstick, Voyager, Galahad, Suess, Chickadee and Safari Bill (who was finishing up his hike of the JMT there).

In mid afternoon we resupplied at the store, then ate dinner at the deli and finally headed out around 5:30. Dwight had figured out an "easy way" to get back to the trail but it wasn't long before we were standing at a trail intersection wondering which direction the PCT was. We happened to be near the historic "Parson's Lodge", a stone structure built as a meeting place for the Sierra Club in the 1930's. So while Speedstick (she'd lost the trail as well) and Dwight pondered over the map, I went to check out the lodge. It was locked up, but a door was open at a nearby log cabin. I walked in, thinking it was a tourist attraction as well, but it was actually a Ranger's private residence. Her husband was very nice about my mistake.

Back on the trail, Speedstick and Dwight thought [emphasis added] they had it all figured out. But it didn't make sense to me. The ranger is 1/10th of a mile away... why don' I just go ask her. Speedsick, satisfied that she had it figured out, went on. I went back to the Ranger cabin, and she headed us in the right direction--too late to go after Speedstick who was well down another trail. Enroute to the high Sierra camp at Glen Aulin, our stop for the day, we stopped to dump the sand out of our shoes from the beachy trail...and here came Speedstick. She figured out her mistake when she got to a sign that said "Maintenance Area". She then bushwacked her way in what she figured to be the general direction of the trail. Until she met up with us, she really didn't know for sure that she was actually on the PCT. I wish I had her moxy.

We arrived at the Glen Aulin Camp just before dark. Voyager, Galahad, Suess, Chickadee and a hiker we hadn't met before--Ghost--were already there. (Speedstick had gone on to get a few more miles in.) We thought Glen Aulin was just tent camping spots with some food lockers (which it did have)--but it was also a staffed camp with several platform tents, and a small mess hall. For $148 per person/per night, you could stay in a small paltform tent replete with a woodstove, small dresser and two single beds. I believe this price also included breakfast and dinner. You could also get just breakfast for $12pp and tent camping was free. Since space was available, Dwight told Tom, the site manager, that we'd take a tent cabin. "Reeeaaally?", Tom said, his eye wide in disbelief. Clearly, no thru-hikers ever stay in the tent cabins. "Just kidding" Dwight said--pleased he could keep a straight face while saying we'd take a tent cabin. But we did spring for breakfast.

I think we did 16 miles or so today. Not bad for spending so much time hanging out at Tuolome Meadows General Store.

Day 58; Sat June 23 2007

(Dr Bug) Started hiking at 6:02am. I love an early start. After about 2 hrs of hiking we ran into Suess, Chickadee and speed stick. They were just waking and getting it together. The older folks wake up early and get in the miles the young folk hike late in the evening. So it goes.

There was a choice of trail to take - PCT ridge or JMT river and lake. We took the ridge. There were some spectacular views of the mountains across the canyon. Snow covered black volcanic rock with pockets filled with glacier melt - lakes and ponds. Then these roaring waterfalls from the mountain lakes into the green canyon below.

Of course, we were too absorbed watching this and we got lost. I was in the lead and got off trail, on to a spur trail to a spring. STUD was behind and started backtracking to the actual trail. By the time I worked my way back she was gone. This is a dilema I face often. First I wait for her - 5 minutes, no show. Now I must determine where she went. I choose forward at the trail junction we missed, thinking she found it and went ahead. This is what I hate more than anything. I don't know whether she is in front or behind me on the trail. It is a gamble to try and catch her. I turn a corner with a great veiw of the trail in front of me for 1/2 mile and I don't see her. This is where I get nervous. Luckily I hear her voice from down below the mountain ridge. She had gotten off trail where we were originally lost looking for me. This could have been much worse.

At lunch STUD tried to grill cheese on toast over a small fire and a rock pile for a stove. The fire was nice but the cheese didn't grill. Lunch was still good.

We hiked to spot on the map that looked above tree line and away from water, between two lakes.

Day 57; Fri June 22 2007

(Stud) I slept really well last night. It's been warmer the last few days which is a plus and a minus. A plus because it makes sleeping more comfortable and a minus because it doesn't thwart the mosquitos. But we hung our mosquito net from a line tied between 2 trees--and it was pretty effective. It covers from our heads to about our waists and stays in place even if you roll over.

We had a quick 14 mile hike into Reds Meadow today. It was an easy trek--and the small restaurant the was calling..."double cheeseburgers and chocolate milk shakes..come and get it".

The last few miles before getting to Reds Meadow was a burn area with just the burned trunks of the pine trees remaining. The fire occurred in 1992 due to lightning after a 7 yr drought. Only the grasses and low scrubs seem to have come back. A local told us it would take 150 years to recover because of the low amount of rain here.

There is a family owned pack station at Red's Meadow. In addition to providing pack services where they will take you and your gear into the back country on horseback and mule, they also will provide a cook and whatever related services you need. They also have a small grocery (where we resupplied).

We spent much of the day at Red's Meadow--hanging out with Suess, Chickadee and Speedstick (who we first met at Kennedy meadows). Besides buying groceries and eating at their restaurant twice, we took at showers there. They're free and the water comes directly from a hot spring. It was actuaaly too ot to stand directly under.

We left late in the afternoon and stealth camped on the border of Devils Postpile National Monument--which we knew because "Border" signs were stapled to all the trees. Devils Postpile is an interesting rock formation which we thought we would be able to see from the PCT but could not--we'll have to save this for another trip.

Two reminders today that life and death go on in the world even though our isolation often make us detached from events around us. When we got into Red's Meadow, a couple day hiking with their son stopped to chat with us about thru-hiking. The woman was so happy to meet thru-hikers you would have thought we were a celebrity couple. When she found out we were from SC, she told us that 7 or 8 fire fighters had died there while fighting a blaze at a furniture store. She couldn't remember the town.

And on a more personal note, while calling home today, I learned of the passing of my Aunt Pris--my father's oldest sister. Aunt Pris was a super cool aunt who was talented at many things: she was a generous hostess, great cook, talented seamstress and other types of hand work such as knitting and crochet (which she taught me). She was an avid reader and artist--and I am lucky to have one of her paintings--which is a favorite of mine. It was a gift for helping with the book she wrote out my grandfather. She was really fun to shop with, had a great sense of humor and a wonderful laugh. I loved her and she will be missed by all.

Day 56; Thu June 21 2007

(Dr Bug) It was wonderful to wake up in the clear sheets of a queen bed. The yurt was toasty warm. We gathered our things and said good bye to our little refuge. We had a big breakfast at the VVR resturant and then closed our tab. This was a BIG bill. I guess why they call this a resort. To me it was worth it, we only stayed 24 hrs but it was one of the most relaxing stops we have had. The staff was great and the atmosphere was layed back. There were some negative VVR rumours on the trail. I found none of them to be true. I would highly recommend this place, but is not cheap!

At the landing on the othe side on Edison Lake, STUD and talked to some section hikers names Suess and Chickadee-guys in their early 20's. They were knowledgable fisherman and gave STUD some good tips. We would see them throughout the day and talk to them alot more. A neat piece of gear that Suess had was a Big Buddy wood stove. It looked like a small coffee can with internal chambers. You could cook using small pieces of wood.

There were many river crossings in the next section. This is not STUDs favorite thing to do. She hates to get her feet wet. Because ofthe light snow season, fords that are normally thigh or waist deep were ankle or calf deep. We were very lucky with the lack of snow. The north fork of Mono Creek and Silver Pass Creek were easily forded.

Our next obstacle was Silver Pass at 10,895 ft. The climb to the pass was long and rocky. There were small patches of snow to negotiate and we either walked though them, or boldered around them. In the afternoon the softer snow made for easier walking. We were never going to go over a pass in the morning if at all possible. This was all very tiering because we basically climbed over or around piles of rocks. The trail wasn't much different from the surrounding terrain. We rested at the top and enjoyed the views of both the valleys in the north and south. Suess and Chickadee showed up as well as Hiker Jan. I think we sat on this ridge for an hour and talked to these folks.

It seemed like we couldn't get going after that. I always think it is important to try and camp in a high place. I had a spot in mind and we had ten more miles to go after lunch. I like high ground just aound the tree line where there is no water because 1) there are less mosiqutos and 2) I hope the higher you go, the less bear activity. We were shooting for a high and dry spot on the map between Lake Virginia and Purple Lake. Prior to this we stopped and ate dinner. Eating dinner miles before your intended camp site is a good practice in bear country so you do not have food smells in camp. This is a practice we have used thoughout the Sierras. We ate one of the expensive dinners Mom sent us, Mountain House chicken terryaki. It was the best dinner I have ever eaten on the trail.

Eventually we made our camp destination between the two lakes. For the first time we hung the mosquito neting directly from a string; we did not sleep in the tarp. It worked great.

We 14.8 hiked miles today. Not bad considering we did not start walking till 10:45.